Residential Radon Mitigation

At Cook’s Radon, every radon mitigation system we install is tailored specifically for the home it protects. Using state-of-the-art diagnostic technologies, we are able to minimize the impact to your home while maximizing radon reduction.

Common Mitigation Strategies

Most radon mitigation system involve a process called “soil depressurization,” which pulls radon from beneath your home and exhausts it back outside—before it ever enters your home. But, every house is completely different and may require a custom solution.

For Homes Built on a Slab

Sub-slab depressurization starts with coring a 5-inch hole through the slab. A small pit is hollowed out beneath the hole, where a PVC pipe is then placed. This pipe is routed to a fan, which creates a vacuum beneath the slab, allowing radon to be sucked away and exhausted into the outside air. On the day the system is installed, we will perform several diagnostics and tests to determine the location of the highest concentrations of radon gas and the optimal placement of the suction pipes.

For Homes with a Crawl Space

Crawl space encapsulation starts with a 4-inch corrugated pipe being laid around the perimtere of the crawl space. A high-quality 12-Mil vapor barrier will then be laid over the entire floor and wall of the crawl space, with 12-inch overlaps at each seam. The vapor barrier will be secured to the walls with foundation pins every 3 feet and waterproof caulk in-between. A 3-inch schedule 40 PVC radon vent pipe will route from the crawl space either to an exterior wall or through the home to the attic space. The radon fan will then be installed along the path of the vent pipe, exhausting the gas either above the roof edge or through the roof (depending on routing).

Block-Wall Depressurization

Most homes build in the late 80’s or earlier have block foundation walls, which are infamous for being a pathway for radon entry. When we perform diagnostics, ⅝-inch holes will be drilled in key locations of the block wall to be tested. If elevated radon levels are found, a 3-inch hole will be cored through the foundation wall. A small amount of dirt will be vacuumed from the hole, where a 2-inch pipe will be insterted into the block wall, tying into the sub-slab or sub-membrance system.

If a home has poured foundation walls, a garage attached to the main floor, and a porch made of concrete, brick, or stone, we can perform this same technique below the garage and porch slab.

Drain Tile Depressurization

Waterproofing systems in homes (i.e., channel drains) can serve as pathways for radon. When we are performing diagnostics, if radon levels are shown to be in the channel drain, we will core a 5-inch hole through the slab in a location around it. The radon vent pipe will then be insterted where it will touch the corrugated pipe below the slab. This allows the air below the slab in the channel drain to be pulled into the mitigation system.

To prevent air loss, we can also seal the channel drain. However, if the basement has problems with water intrustion, this is generally not recommended, but, due to the loss of pressure, we cannot gaurantee the effectiveness of the mitigation system. If this applies to your home, one of our experienced radon professionals can, during the initial inspection, help you understand all of your options and help you determine the best solution for your home.

Examples of Interior Routing

Examples of Exterior Routing

Frequently Asked Questions


All of our services are covered by the best warranty in the business. Plus, our warranty is fully transferrable, meaning that the warranty stays with your home—not you. If you ever decide to sell your home, just give us a call, and we’ll handle the rest.