Residential Radon Mitigation Systems
Customizing a System For Your Home
Residential radon mitigation systems start with getting radon out of your house through a process called soil depressurization. The goal of depressurization is to draw the soil gasses under the slab into our system and exhaust it back outside before the house can pull it into the home. Basically our system is competing with the natural negative pressure of the home.The mechanics of depressurization involve the use of a fan which creates the necessary suction to vent the radon gas to the exterior of the house. This approach is referred to as active soil depressurization (ASD) and constitutes the vast majority of soil depressurization systems that get installed in homes today.
Different Techniques for Different Homes
For Homes Built on a Slab
Sub-slab Depressurization involves coring a 5″ hole through the slab. A small pit is hollowed out beneath the hole and a PVC pipe is inserted. This pipe is routed to a fan that creates a vacuum beneath the slab. On the day of install, Cook’s Radon will perform diagnostics and pressure field extension testing to determine where the highest concentrations of radon gas are coming into the home. This data will also provide mapping below the slab to determine the number of suction points necessary to achieve the lowest radon levels possible.
For Homes with a Crawl Space
Proper crawl space encapsulation for radon remediation requires 4″ corrugated pipe to be laid around the perimeter of the crawl space. A high quality 12-Mil vapor barrier will be laid over the entire floor and wall of the crawlspace with 12″ overlaps at each seam. The vapor barrier will be secured to the walls with foundation pins every 3ft and caulked in between with a waterproof caulk. A3 ” schedule 40 PVC radon vent pipe will route from the crawl space to an exterior wall or up through the home to an attic space. The radon fan will be installed either on the outside of the home or in the attic and the pipe will route from the fan and exhaust above the roof edge or through the roof depending on the routing.
Homes built in the mid to late 80’s and earlier will typically have block foundation walls. Block foundation walls are known for being a pathway for radon entry. During the diagnostics, a 5/8″ (thumb size) holewill be drilled in key locations of the block wall to perform the diagnostics testing. if elevated levels are found, a 3″ hole will be cored through the foundation wall. A small amount of dirt will be vacuumed from the hole and a 2″ pipe will be inserted in the block wall tying into the sub-slab or sub membrane system.. This is called block-wall depressurization.
If a home has poured foundation walls and the garage is attached on the main floor and the porch is concrete, brick or stone, we will perform this same technique below the garage and porch slab.
Drain Tile Depressurization
Homes with a waterproofing system such as a channel drain can be a pathway for radon. On the install day while performing diagnostics, if elevated radon levels are shown to be in the channel drain, our approach is to core a 5″ hole through the slab in a location around the channel drain. The radon vent pipe will be inserted until touching the corrugated pipe below the slab. This will allow the air below the slab in the channel drain to be pulled into our system.Typically, to prevent air pressure loss, we will seal the channel drain. However, if the basement has a problem with water intrusion, sealing the channel drain is not advised but due to the pressure loss, we cannot guarantee the effectiveness of the system. During our initial inspection, Our qualified team members will discuss your options to determine the best solution for your home. Very rarely do we enter through the sump lid because the radon pipe can get broken over time when needing to service the sump motor.
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Cook’s Radon – Residential Radon Mitigation System
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